From October to spring, a lot of water comes into Northwest homes on boots, dogs, umbrellas and rain jackets. Add bathrooms and laundry rooms, and some floors simply get wet more than others. Tile and luxury vinyl plank (LVP) are the two most common choices for these spaces. Both can be good options, but they handle water in different ways.
How each one handles water
Porcelain and ceramic tile are fired clay products. Porcelain in particular absorbs very little water, so the tile itself is not harmed by getting wet. The weak points are the joints. Standard cement-based grout is porous, which is why it is often sealed, and in showers it is the waterproofing layer behind or under the tile, not the tile, that keeps water out of the walls and floor.
LVP is a layered plastic product with a printed design and a clear wear layer on top. Many products are marketed as waterproof, meaning the planks are not damaged by surface water. But water that gets through the seams or around the edges of the room can sit underneath, on the subfloor, where it dries slowly. That is why the install details matter: the right underlayment, sealed perimeters where the manufacturer calls for them, and proper transitions at doorways.
Entryways and mudrooms
Entries see water plus grit. Small stones and sand act like sandpaper on any floor. Tile shrugs off grit and is easy to mop. LVP handles water well, but grit can scratch the wear layer over time. Either way, a good mat inside and outside the door does a lot of the work.
Bathrooms
- Showers and tub surrounds: tile over a proper waterproofing system is the standard. LVP is not a shower material.
- Full bathroom floors: tile is the traditional choice and holds up to splashes and standing water. LVP can work in a bathroom if it is rated for it and installed to the manufacturer's instructions, but think about how often water ends up on the floor.
- Powder rooms: with no shower or tub, LVP is often a practical, warmer and quicker option.
Comfort, safety and sound
Tile is hard and feels cold in winter, which is why some homeowners add electric radiant heat under bathroom tile. LVP is softer and warmer underfoot. For slip resistance, look for tile rated for wet areas (manufacturers publish a wet slip resistance rating) and choose textured finishes for bathroom floors. Small tiles with more grout lines also give more grip in a shower.
Repairs down the road
A cracked tile can be replaced, but matching it years later depends on keeping spares. Damaged LVP planks can often be swapped, especially with click-lock products, and again, keeping a box of spare planks helps. Either way, save some extra material from your project.
A simple rule of thumb
Use tile where water is constant (showers, tub surrounds, and bathroom floors in heavily used bathrooms). Consider LVP where water is occasional and comfort or speed matters (powder rooms, kitchens, basements, many entryways). The subfloor, the transitions and the install method matter as much as the material you pick.
Frequently asked questions
Is LVP really waterproof?
Many LVP planks are not damaged by water on the surface. Water that gets through seams or around the edges can still reach the subfloor, so installation details matter.
Do I need to seal tile?
Porcelain and glazed ceramic tile usually do not need sealing, but cement-based grout is porous and is often sealed. Some grouts, such as epoxy grout, do not need sealing. Follow the product instructions.
Can LVP go in a bathroom?
Yes, if the product is rated for it and installed to the manufacturer's instructions. It is a common choice for powder rooms. Showers should be tiled over a waterproofing system.
Which is better for an entryway?
Both can work. Tile handles grit and water very well; LVP is warmer and quieter. Good mats help either floor last longer.
General information for homeowners, not a substitute for an in-person assessment or your product manufacturer's instructions.
